What’s your message Nagaland?

THE SCENE

2^nd March, 2013 Dimapur town, Nagaland, North East state of India

It all started as a usual as any day can get, I had a long day at work and am returning back home. I decide to do some grocery shopping at my usual joint MIX BAG at City Tower junction, the nerve center of Dimapur Town. It’s a little after sun down 6:15PM to be precise. I buy my grocery and I walk towards Popular Bakery on circular road (the arterial road with prominent retail establishments) to buy some dry fruits. I was on the phone, laptop on my backpack and a bag of grocery in my left hand. Now picture this, as I got out of MIX BAG store and walking past an auto rickshaw parked by the side, I get pulled to the side. Before I could realize what was happening I was forcefully getting pushed into the parked by four Naga young men speaking in Nagamese and English. They were obviously in their prime youth (18-25 years) dressed shabbily, in bandana, t –shirts, shirts fully opened flip flops and black carry bags in their hands. I could sense they were drunk by the stench emanating out of their mouth mixed with the strong smell of chewed pan and cigarette smoke. There are no street lights; the only light is the one coming out of MIX BAG store. So it’s dark and I can’t see their faces up and close. All four of them are shouting and pushing my into the auto trying to take me somewhere. The driver sensing foul play fled the scene. My hands and knuckles are bruised and I am getting scratched on my shoulder and the neck by the shar finger nails of two of the assailants trying to shove me inside the auto. My jaw and cheek bones are pressed against the iron side railing of the auto as I resist all four of them. They are shouting “just get inside the auto ‘sala’” and am shouting “why should I and who are you”. As the scuffle continues they are unable to put me inside the auto and one of them got really angry and shoved a heavy metal device which felt like a gun on the jawbone and hit me with it, howling “bidi khabo?(you want to smoke?)”. My t-shirt is torn as they are pulling and pushing me from all different side. Not a soul in sight and it’s still dark. As I got a little free from them I thought of running to MIX BAG shop to inform them about what was happening. All of a sudden they release their clutches on me and start looking at each other and decide to amble away, literally taking a leisurely stroll as if nothing really happened at all. That’s when I realized few people were gathering in front of MIX BAG store and a car had stopped by seeing the commotion. Notice that the four men didn’t run or flee, they simply walked away towards Circular Road.  

Message: They were not scared, they were confident of what they are doing with no fear of public intervention for sure.

I walk towards the front of the shop where there is enough light and people are asking me what happened, what were they saying, and what did they ask you. All they said was “get into the auto” shoving me in forcibly! Nothing less, nothing more. No provocation, no personal issues, absolute strangers! Two Naga men from the car which stopped by profusely apologized on behalf of Nagaland and condemned the incident, agreeing that this incident should not have happened. Later I realized they must have recognized that I am a non – Naga as one of them was working in Mumbai. I was given his visiting card and asked to call if anything at all happens anytime.  They agreed to drop me to popular bakery on circular road where I was heading. I thank them for their good gesture and buy dry fruits and walk back home.

THE MOTIVE

I hail from a secular state of India and have lived in an Islamic country, a Buddhist kingdom, a Christian state. I have traveled the length and breadth of India, both urban and rural, from Kerala to Kashmir, Rajasthan to Nagaland. And, this is the first time in my entire life that I was physically assaulted and almost kidnapped!

As they say was I at the wrong place at the wrong time? Definitely not. I was in the centre of town City Tower and buying grocery before 6:30PM!

Naturally, I am angry and sad at the same time as to why I was physically assaulted and almost kidnapped and. In fact I didn’t even notice their presence until I got pulled in by them. Now who are these people? What was their intent? Of course it was to get me into the auto and take me somewhere else fro the main town! But what was their motive to do this? Why me? I was absolutely sure that it was nothing personal. Then what were they trying to prove? They were obviously angry at something and they were taking pot shots at me. What were they angry about? They were definitely intoxicated, but should that justify their actions? They were definitely not scared either, so have they committed such crimes earlier and have strengthened their beliefs that it’s okay to go ahead with such dastardly acts? I am aware that the local elections had just got over two days earlier and pre and post poll violence’s are reported regularly in paper, are they upset over the election results? So they decide to bash up and kidnap a random somebody? Or was it anti India sentiment since I am Non-Naga? Is it because of the presence of Indian Army and the terrible history associated with it? Or is it all of the above or none of the above?

THE MESSAGE

There was no IRB Mahila or men, commando trained armed personnel to be seen anywhere in the vicinity. Usually they are guarding the streets and junctions in large numbers by sunset. Why were they not around especially when post poll violence is expected?

What’s your message Nagaland? Why were the peacekeepers absent in the nerve centre of town after sunset on a Saturday, just one day after the election results were declared?  Is safety of ordinary men and women taken for granted?

What if there were more than four guys? What if I was weaker than I am? What if they were successful in kidnapping me and taken to somewhere else? What would have happened to me is an easy guess? What if I was with my parents? What if I was married and with my wife? What if she had been pregnant? What if I was with an international tourist friend of mine? What would have happened to us?

What’s your message Nagaland? Even a commercial merchandize in a retail store has a specific shelf life. Are you saying my own life has an unpredictable shelf life, that my expiry date could be just ‘any day’ just because I am in Nagaland?

I am told by my well meaning Naga friends that this is common and this has happened even to them and their family members. I was advised not venture out early in the morning, late in the evening. I was told to finish off all my work and shopping before sundown.

What’s your message Nagaland? Is there an unspoken but accepted soft curfew by the Naga’s? Whose idea is this and why have the people of Nagaland accepted this? Are you not encouraging them by not standing up and fighting for what is rightfully yours – civil liberty and freedom of movement in your own state?

I am told not to walk alone or even take the public transport at certain places especially in the evening.

What’s your message Nagaland? Am I supposed to buy a car here for my personal safety? Is that the cost of living in Nagaland? Now who ensure that my car will not be stolen? In my limited time and experience I have personally witnessed three Boleros being stolen right in front of my own eyes! I am even told that it is ‘the’ favorite car to be stolen. So should I go for a non favorite car to be safe? Even then is there a guarantee? Is this the way I ensure that I am safe in Nagaland?

I am told not to go for a jog in my neighborhood or mingle with people around as there are supposedly anti social elements around. So I cannot shop for milk or other essentials. I need to go to the main market that too only in daylight!

What’s your message Nagaland? Am I supposed to live just 9AM-5PM in Nagaland? And that too in the company of others and in a private automobile? Is that that price I have to pay for being in Nagaland?

I was on the phone when this unfortunate incident took place? I was talking to my friends in the major metros of India trying to put a renowned local band from Nagaland across to them, building bridges among the artists community, promoting art and culture in my own limited way. Now the band definitely does not need my help, it was just a good will gesture on my part and this is what happens to me! Ironic isn’t it? I am closely working with many artists, media and an organization under the Union Ministry of India to document and promote dying art forms indigenous culture so that community level artists are benefited and to save endangered age old traditions and customs. I am here doing this on my own free will and volunteering for this noble cause.  I am committed to my work here and will ensure that I will complete it within the stipulated time frame.

What’s your message Nagaland? Will you ensure that I am alive within this stimulated time frame? Do I ‘have’ a time frame for living in Nagaland? Will you help me promote your own culture and art forms so that community level artists in your own villages benefit? Will you help me promote your Nagaland?

I was told by my educated, well placed and well meaning Naga friends that this incident could have happened to anybody in any part of the world, not just in Nagaland.                                                                           

What’s your message Nagaland? Are you justifying what happened to me was right? If this is happens anywhere else then its ‘okay’ to happen in Nagaland? Shouldn’t you stand up and proclaim that “this will never happen in Nagaland irrespective of whether it happens in any part of the world!”? Shouldn’t that be the right approach and attitude? Last year unfortunately people from North East were targeted in India and they came back trainfulls, in hundreds and lakhs, back to their home states. Did you tell them that it happens everywhere else in the world so stay back where you are, just be careful and move on with your life?

Now, let me categorically emphasize this fact: this is the first time that I have faced an untoward incident from the Naga community. I have many Naga friends; they are all very friendly, warm and accepting as you are. They have taken care of me like their own family member ensuring that my every need is met going that extra mile to ensure my safety and well being. They are genuine and generous in great measure. However, there are bad apples in your backyard like anywhere else. This is not an isolated incident as I was told and is not just targeted at Non Nagas, it has been happening to your own people as I am told.

What’s your message Nagaland? Will you let a few bad guys spoil your reputation? Will you allow those anti social elements to tarnish your culture and good will? How long will you wait till you take action? Does it have to happen to every member of your own family before you say enough is enough? What “specific time bound action” will you take to ensure that this does not happen to me or you or anyone else for that matter? This incident isn’t about me. This incident is about Nagaland and your people. Will you prove to the world that this is not what Naga’s stand for? Will you fight for civil liberty and justice? Will you stand corrected?

What’s your message Nagaland?

Kashmir: Paradise on Earth?

The Mughal emperor Jahangir was so captivated by the beauty of the Kashmir Valley that he said "Gar firdaus, ruhe zamin ast, hamin asto, hamin asto, hamin asto" (if there is a paradise on the face of this earth, it is here, it is here, it is here)

Srinagar: First Impressions
Mighty Himalayan Ranges forking much above the clouds at 6500m -snow peaked, stretching far and wide form my window seat on my way to the airport, one of the smallest airport, photography strictly banned, military presence, Urdu signboards, Hijab clad girls,Pathan suited men, clean and well maintained roads, pine tree mountains, green manicured gardens, almost traffic and very less people to be seen(probably due to the Holy month of Ramadan), 32 deg C (that's 4 deg more than Mumbai when I left the airport in the morning!) and surprisingly high humidity. No internet connectivity on the phone and SMS banned on pre-paid cards due to security reasons.  

Story of Houseboats on Dal Lake

Rows of Houseboats lit at night on Dal Lake

Like many other Indian states (Nagaland, Sikkim) outsiders are not allowed to buy and own land in Jammu and Kashmir. Apparently, even the Britishers were not allowed to own the land (!!???) and hence they owned the water by building the houseboats and staying in them in Dal Lake. Later, even owning the water was banned. But the houseboats remained and the locals picked up on them and now its a pride legacy of the Kashmir Valley. Apparently there are more than 500 houseboats stationed in the lake - each with 4-6 bedroom and fully loaded amenities some even with ethnic or Mughal ambience!

Disillusioned Youth
Youth of Kashmir (Srinagar) do not find a bright future in the valley. They feel that Jammu and Kashmir is the most corrupt state in India, that politicians are least bothered about the people of the state. Lack of basic infrastructure and high levels of unemployment and the fact that there is no support or incentives for local business makes them dream of their achievable  Shangri-La: move to Delhi or Bangalore or any other Indian metro. A trend that has been there for quite some time now. They already have either their own brother or a relative who have moved there and are constantly in touch with them and probably are considering moving sometime soon. In fact many asked me "Delhi/Mumbai main naukri milega kya?": "Will I get a job in Delhi/Mumbai" (read do you have any contacts, can you pull some strings?)
Hey but wait, I was also told in the same breath that there are no poor people in the state: no one below the poverty line - probably an indication of a thriving black market. Apparently the rural areas have wide and good roads, "pukka houses" and flourishing farming. Paradoxes-a-plenty!

Cricket is more than a game
As with the rest of India, Cricket is less of a game and more of a religion in its own right in the Valley with the youth indulging in it on a daily basis. Sundays are dedicated to the matches. Again, the government doesn't seem to encourage or support organised matches. On the contrary, they have a ceiling of Rs.500 for a single ticket for a match. The rest of the money is pooled in by the youth itself. Of course, there's no prize 'money' but only a memento for the winner and nobody seem to complain. Apparently, in the rural district of Kupwara, there seem to be a huge ground dedicated for the sport, complete with proper pitch and mats, played with complete uniforms! Such is the passion (and coupled with the lack of other entertainment options) for the game that its not unusual for the youth to watch all five days of test matches when even the 20-20 format is vying to get enough eyeballs!

Hindu Vs Muslim
Majority of the population is Muslim(some peg it at 95%). Kashmiri Pandits seem to have migrated to Jammu or Delhi long ago due to the constant agitation and militancy in the region. However, there's absolute consensus that it has nothing to do with the local inhabitants or people at large but that its the handiwork of petty politicians as everywhere else. In fact the locals, whether Hindu or Muslim are just ordinary people trying to ear their livelihood sharing the same geography, food, language(Kashmiri), jokes, concerns and challenges. Clearly, the Hindu-Muslim divide exists only in the perverted minds of the short sighted politicians. Kashmiri Pandits originally hailed mostly from the Baramulla and Anantnag districts. Currently as a measure to reverse the migration and to provide relief measures, the government is providing them with assured government jobs, Rs.5500 per month per family in addition to free ration. According to locals only about 5% have returned back with family. Some work in Srinagar with the rest of the family away in Jammu or Delhi

Urdu Vs Kashmiri
Urdu is spoken by the Muslims and Kashmiri is spoken by both the Muslims and the Hindus. Kashmiri has also its own script and is taught at the schools. I was told that Kashmiri is spoken only in the Kashmir region. 

Kashmir Vital Stats

From 36-24-36 to 24-36-24, Sexy Babe to Ugly Woman, its definitely not an appealing transformation. In fact, its downright disgusting. The same is true with the current weather  pattern in the Valley. From snow peaked mountains during freezing winters to blooming green meadows during pleasant summers, woollen clothes used to be the only constant. But this year they had the hottest summer with mercury peaking at 36 deg C! - a sign of things to come. Previously, summers more than 30 deg C were unheard of. The effect of global warming is raising its ugly head and it wont be surprising to AC being adopted in homes and office in the near future! Yet, as they say there is always a silver lining underneath every dark cloud. In this case its still a relief to know that even a 10mins of rain brings about a significant dip in the mercury levels and you need to reach for your pullover. But how long will the line be silver? The writing on the wall is very clear!

I wonder what Jahangir would have said about Kashmir today.